The average interocular of humans is considered to be about 65mm (2.5 inches.) When this same distance is used as the interaxial distance between two shooting cameras then the resulting stereoscopic effect is typically known as “Ortho-stereo.” Many stereographers choose 2.5” as a stereo-base for this reason.

If the interaxial distance used to shoot is smaller than 2.5 inches then you are shooting “Hypo-stereo.” This technique is common for theatrically released films to accommodate the effects of the big screen. It is also used for macro stereoscopic photography.

Hyper-stereo refers to interaxial distances greater than 2.5 inches. As I mentioned earlier the greater the interaxial separation, the greater the depth effect. An elephant can perceive much more depth than a human, and a human can perceive more depth than a mouse.

However, using this same analogy, the mouse can get close and peer inside the petals of a flower with very good depth perception, and the human will just go “cross-eyed.” Therefore decreasing the interaxial separation between two cameras to 1” or less will allow you to shoot amazing macro stereo-photos and separating the cameras to several feet apart will allow great depth on mountain ranges, city skylines and other vistas.

The trouble with using hyper-stereo is that scenes with gigantic objects in real-life may appear as small models. This phenomenon is known as dwarfism and we perceive it this way because the exaggerated separation between the taking lenses allows us to see around big objects much more that we do in the real world. Our brain interprets this as meaning the object must be small.

The opposite happens with hypo-stereo, where normal sized objects appear gigantic. (Gigantism.)

http://dashwood3d.com/blog/beginners-guide-to-shooting-stereoscopic-3d/index.html

http://3d-con.com/2014/files/NSA2014-MACRO1.pdf

http://nzphoto.tripod.com/stereo/macrostereo/macro3dwindows.htm

http://nzphoto.tripod.com/sterea/stereotake.htm

http://petapixel.com/2014/09/30/your-lens-aperture-might-be-lying-to-you-or-the-difference-between-f-stops-and-t-stops/

https://www.premiumbeat.com/blog/understanding-lenses-aperture-f-stop-t-stop/

F-stops are the theoretical amount of light transmitted by the lens; t-stops, the actual amount. The difference is about 1/3 stop, often more with zooms.

f-stop is the measurement of the opening (aperture) of the lens in relation to its focal length (the distance between the lens and the sensor).  The math is focal length / lens diameter.
It mainly controls depth of field, given a known amount of light.

https://www.scantips.com/lights/fstop2.html

The smaller f-stop (larger aperture) the more depth of field and light.

Note that the numbers in an aperture—f/2.8, f/8—signify a certain amount of light, but that doesn’t necessarily mean that’s directly how much light is getting to your sensor.

T stop on the other hand is the measurement of how much light passes through aforementioned opening and actually makes it to the sensor. There is no such a lens which does not steal some light on the way to the sensor.
In short, is the corrected f-stop number you want to collect, based on the amount of light reaching the sensor after bouncing through all the lenses, to know exactly what is making it to film. The smaller, the more light.

http://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Ratings/Optical-Metric-Scores

Note that exposure stop is a measurement of sensibility to light not of lens capabilities.

https://www.iphoneographers.tv/luts-samples

http://www.diyphotography.net/diy_create_your_own_bokeh